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Fabric |
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A generic term for all fibrous constructions. |
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False dyes |
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Dyes such as turmeric that fade rapidly upon exposure to sunlight also called fugitive dyes.
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Farad |
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Two vertical beams of karchob.
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Fast colours (or dyes) |
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Dyes that do not fade appreciably when exposed to light (lightfast); dyes that are resistant to washing (washfast); dyes that are fast to rubbing (rubfast); and dyes that are resistant to sweat (sweatfast). Some dyes are lightfast but not washfast, etc.
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Felt/felting |
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A fabric made of loose, haphazardly arranged wool fibers, which have surface scales that stick to each other as a result of the felt-making process. By the felting process a firm fabric is produced from the matting and adherence of a mass of fibres lying indiscriminately in all directions by mechanical processes such as pressure, moisture, pounding. This process includes disarranging the wool fibers, placing them in a thick layer, and then subjecting them to moisture and extensive friction over several hours, causing the fibers to shrink and mat together. In Central Asia, nomadic peoples live in circular tents called yurts, whose roofs and walls are covered in felt.
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Fibre |
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The basic component of cloth - an individual strand. A general term referring to strands of plant or animal issue, of naturally limited length, used in the construction of fabrics. Twisted fibres refer to the twisting of two or more strands of unspun fibrous material. Fibres normally have a definite length, unlike filaments, which can be of any length.
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Field |
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The design element on a textile which contains a wide and often repetitive pattern. While usually occupying a central place in a design structure, the field on some Asian textiles may be divided by a head- panel.
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Fix |
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To effect more permanent chemical combination.
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Fixing solution |
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A solution composed of a weekly alkaline substance, such as calcium carbonate, that facilities more permanent chemical combination of an alum mordant to cellulosic fibers.
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Flannel |
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Woven woollen fabric.
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Flat screen printing |
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The mechanical method by which the cloth is printed using a number of stationary flat screens of a rectangular shape, working in a line. These screens have colour pressed through the mesh, then they are lifted, the cloth moves on the space of one repeat and the process begins again.
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Flat weave |
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A general term applied to carpets and rugs woven by a tapestry weave or weft wrapping process rather than a knotting technique which produces a tufted pile surface.
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Flavin |
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A colouring matter extracted from Quercitron.
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Flexography |
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Printing from rubber rollers cut in relief. Introduced in its rotary form in 1963, it is used in the wallpaper industry and is one of the main means of printing transfer paper.
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Floating threads |
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Warp or weft threads travelling over or under two or more of the opposite elements.
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Flood-stroke |
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A single stroke (or passage of the squeegee) made while the screens are raised from the table, in flat screen-printing. This fills the mesh with print paste before the screen is lowered to clothe level and the usual squeegee stroke is made; thus in the time of a single stroke almost double the quantity of print paste is applied to the cloth.
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Florentine Canvaswork |
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Embroidery of a wavy or flame design.
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Floss Silk |
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Raw, untwisted silk thread, obtained from the external covering of the silkworm cocoon.
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Fondu |
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See rainbowing.
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Foot-braced loom |
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A two-bar frameless loom, with one bar secured to a backstrap for controlling tension and the other bar braced against the weaver’s feet. It is one type of backstrap tension loom.
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Foundation weave |
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The basic woven structure of a fabric over which any supplementary elements float. This is usually a one-over-one-under over which any supplementary elements float. This is usually a one-over-one-under tabby weave.
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Four-heddle loom |
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A simple but versatile frame loom with four heddles or sets of heddles, used to practice striking geometric patterns from supplementary floating wefts.
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Frame loom |
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A type of non-mechanical loom in which a wooden frame permits the tension on the warp threads to be regulated by the beams without the need for the backstrap operation of the earlier types of loom. The heddles are opened by foot pressure on treadles.
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Frill |
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An ornamental edging of woven material, of which on edge is gathered and the other left loose, giving a wavy appearance.
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Fringe |
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An ornamental border of loose or twisted threads, usually the unwoven warp ends remaining at each end of a length of fabric when the textile is removed from the loom and the warp is severed.
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Fugitive (dyes) |
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Dyes that rapidly fade when exposed to light also called false dyes.
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Full, to |
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To treat or beat cloth for the purpose of cleansing and thickening it.
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Fulled Wool |
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Woollen cloth that is felted and shrunk by the application of heat, pressure and moisture.
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Fuller’s heb. |
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Saponaria officinalis; a plant used in the process of fulling.
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Fuller’s thistle, or teasle. |
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Dipsacus fullonum. Used for fulling cloth.
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Furnishing brush (or roller) |
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The brush or roller that rotates in the colour trough and supplies the printing roller with colour in engraved cylinder or surface roller printing.
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Fustet |
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Young fustic. Venetian Sumach Rhus cotinus. It gives a fine orange colour, which has not much permanence.
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